Punjab PSEB Matric Cutting and Tailoring flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Bent-handle shears

Cutting tool whose lower blade stays parallel to the table, keeping fabric flat and giving accurate, long cuts on woven fabrics.

Pinking shears

Shears with zigzag blades that cut a ravel-resistant edge on firmly woven fabrics; not a substitute for a proper seam finish on loose weaves.

Iron temperature for wool

Medium heat, about 150 °C, applied with a press cloth; higher heat causes shine and scorching on wool fabrics.

Natural waist location

The narrowest part of the torso, found by bending sideways; it is the reference line for waist measurement and skirt drafting.

Hip measurement position

Taken at the fullest part of the hips, about 18–20 cm below the natural waist, with the tape parallel to the floor.

Ease in garments

The difference between body measurement and finished garment measurement; a fitted blouse needs 6–8 cm bust ease.

Choosing pattern size

Select size by bust for bodices and by hip for skirts and trousers, then adjust the other areas to match the body.

Full-bust adjustment

A slash-and-spread alteration through the bust point that adds length and width for a larger cup size, then the dart is redrawn.

Grainline arrow

Pattern marking that must be placed parallel to the selvage so the garment hangs correctly and does not twist.

Preshrinking fabric

Washing and drying washable fabric before cutting so the finished garment does not shrink out of shape after its first wash.

Nap layout rule

With pile fabrics such as corduroy or velvet, all pattern pieces are laid in the same direction so shade and texture stay uniform.

Burn test for cotton

Cotton burns like paper with a yellow flame, smells of burning paper, and leaves soft grey ash that crumbles easily.

Cutting on the line

Cutting exactly along the marked cutting line, not the seam line, so the seam allowance stays the intended width.

Rotary cutter use

A rolling blade used with a self-healing mat for straight strips and slippery fabrics; always cut away from the body.

Staystitching purpose

A line of straight stitching 1 cm from the seam line on curved edges, sewn right after cutting to stop stretching.

Backstitch

A strong hand stitch made by taking one stitch forward and half a stitch back; used where machine stitching is not possible.

French seam

A seam that encloses raw edges: stitch wrong sides together, trim, turn, and stitch again; suited to light fabrics.

Slip stitch hem

An invisible hand hem where the needle picks up one thread of the garment and a small bite of the hem fold.

Needle size for denim

A 90/14 or 100/16 needle is used for denim and heavy canvas; a finer needle bends or breaks on thick seams.

Thread tension balance

Correct tension buries the knot inside the fabric; loops underneath mean the top tension is too loose.

Serger differential feed

A setting that stretches or gathers the fabric as it is overlocked, preventing wavy knit edges and puckered woven seams.

Crotch depth alteration

Shorten or lengthen trousers at the crotch line, not the waistband, when the crotch sits too low or too high.

Hem marking

Marking the hem with a gauge held parallel to the floor, or pinning while the wearer stands, so the hem stays even.

Pressing versus ironing

Pressing lifts and lowers the iron with steam; ironing slides it and stretches the fabric out of shape.

Care label iron symbol

An iron symbol with one dot means 110 °C, two dots 150 °C, and three dots 200 °C maximum ironing temperature.

Wool washing rule

Wool is hand washed cool or dry cleaned, never wrung or tumble dried, because heat and friction cause felting and shrinkage.

Twill weave

A weave with a diagonal pattern that is durable and hides soil; denim and gabardine are common twill fabrics.

GSM in fabric

Grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight: light shirting is 100–150 GSM and heavy coating is over 300 GSM.

Garment costing formula

Material cost plus labour plus overhead plus a profit margin gives the selling price; pricing only fabric ignores labour.

Toile or muslin

A test garment made in inexpensive fabric to check fit and design before cutting the final fashion fabric.

Flat-felled seam

A strong seam that encloses both raw edges under a topstitched fold; used on jeans, shirts, and workwear.

Skipped stitches cause

Usually a bent or blunt needle, wrong needle type for the fabric, incorrect threading, or lint packed in the bobbin case.