Fabric Selection, Preparation and Layout
Choosing fabric
Fabric Selection, Preparation and Layout tests matching fibre, weave, weight and care to the garment. Cotton poplin, lawn and khadi suit kameez; denim and canvas suit structured jackets; chiffon and georgette need a lining or French seams. Check shrinkage, colourfastness and drape before buying.
Preparation
- Preshrink washable fabric by washing and drying as the finished garment will be cared for, or steam-press it.
- Straighten the grain by tearing across the end or pulling a weft thread.
- Press out creases; identify the right side, nap and one-way prints.
Layout rules
- Fold fabric right sides together and align the selvedges.
- Place the grainline parallel to the selvedge; lay the largest pieces first.
- Follow nap or one-way design; do not flip pieces.
- Match checks and plaids at seam lines and add extra fabric for matching.
- Mark notches, darts and fold lines; keep seam allowance inside the marked line.
Worked example
A kameez needs front, back, two sleeves and a neck facing. With 112 cm cotton and 2.4 m, place front and back on the fold, sleeves crosswise and facings in the gaps. A one-way print may need 3 m because pieces cannot be reversed; a check may need extra for matching.
Traps
Skipping preshrinking; ignoring nap; laying the grainline diagonally; cutting a check without matching; forgetting wastage; buying fabric without checking width.