Cutting Techniques and Tools
Cutting rules
Cutting Techniques and Tools tests control: accurate lines, consistent seam allowance and no distortion.
- Work on a flat, clear table; keep fabric flat, not hanging over the edge.
- Use bent-handled shears and cut with long, smooth strokes from the heel of the blade.
- Cut exactly on the marked line; keep seam allowance uniform (1–1.5 cm; 2–3 cm hem).
- Cut notches outward; mark darts with chalk or tailor's tacks.
- For slippery or knit fabric, use weights, a rotary cutter and mat.
- Staystitch necklines and armholes before handling.
Worked example
When cutting an armhole curve, take short, controlled bites with the lower blade flat on the table. Do not lift the fabric; lifting stretches the bias and makes the two armholes different. Cut the notch after the curve, not into it. Check both pieces against each other before stitching.
Traps
Using pinking shears for main cutting; sawing with the shears; cutting the fold; losing notches; dull blades; cutting without checking grain; pinning inside the seam allowance and leaving holes. A rotary cutter must be used with a mat and closed after cutting because the blade is exposed. Check the layout against the pattern guide before cutting; once cut, fabric cannot be uncut.