Machine Stitching and Construction
Machine set-up
Machine Stitching and Construction tests threading, tension, stitch choice and construction order.
- Raise the presser foot before threading so the thread enters the tension discs.
- Wind the bobbin evenly and insert it in the correct direction.
- Match needle to fabric: 80/12 cotton, 100/16 denim, ballpoint for knits.
- Set stitch length: 2.5 mm medium fabric, 1.5 mm fine, 3–4 mm basting.
- Sew 1.5 cm seam allowance; backstitch at both ends; press as you sew.
Tension diagnosis
- Loops underneath: top tension too loose or thread not in the discs.
- Loops on top: bobbin tension too loose or bobbin threaded wrongly.
- Puckering: tension too tight, needle too large or fabric stretched.
Worked example
A cotton kameez side seam pulls and the needle breaks. Check the needle for a bent tip, re-thread with the presser foot up, fit an 80/12 needle and set 2.5 mm stitch length, then sew a test on scrap. If the seam puckers, loosen the upper tension slightly and re-test.
Traps
Threading with the foot down; using a bobbin from another machine; pulling fabric; sewing over pins; forgetting to backstitch; not pressing seams before the next stage.