Fitting, Alterations and Finishing
Fitting and ease
Fitting, Alterations and Finishing tests whether you can diagnose drag lines, gaping and tightness without overfitting.
- Wearing ease allows movement; design ease creates style.
- Fit in order: shoulders, bust, waist, hips, sleeve, length.
- Pin-fit on the wrong side, then transfer changes to the pattern.
- Common alterations: take in side seams, move darts, shorten sleeves, let out a hem, adjust crotch depth.
Finishing
- Clip curves, notch corners, understitch facings and grade seam allowances.
- Press each stage; use a pressing cloth.
- Hem with blind stitch; finish raw edges; attach fasteners neatly.
Worked example
A kameez neckline gapes at the front. Pin a wedge at the neckline, tapering to nothing at the bust; transfer it to the pattern as a dart or take in the shoulder seam. Do not simply gather the neckline, which adds bulk. Check the fit over proper undergarments and test sitting and raising the arms.
Traps
Altering before basting; taking in both side seams when only one is needed; clipping too deep; pressing without a cloth; ignoring drag lines; hemming before the fit is approved.