UPMSP Vocational Dressmaking & Decoration cheat sheet

Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge; weft yarns run crosswise. Fabric stretches least along the warp and most along the bias (45°).

Plain weave: maximum interlacement, firm and stable, low drape. Twill weave: diagonal wale, higher yarn float, better drape and soil hiding. Satin weave: long floats, high lustre, lowest abrasion resistance.

Thread count is the number of warp plus weft yarns per square inch; a higher count generally gives a smoother, finer fabric but not necessarily a stronger one.

Natural fibres: cotton (cellulose, absorbs well, burns like paper), wool (protein, flame-retardant, felts with heat + moisture + friction), silk (protein filament, strongest natural fibre), linen (cellulose, stiff, creases easily).

Regenerated fibres (viscose/rayon) are cellulose-based but weaker when wet; synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are thermoplastic and melt rather than char on burning.

Shrinkage allowance before cutting: cotton 2–5%, viscose 4–8%, wool 2–4%; pre-shrink washable fabrics before laying out the pattern.

Fibre identification by burn test: cellulose smells of burning paper and leaves grey ash; protein smells of burnt hair and leaves crushable black beads; synthetics form a hard bead with a plastic odour.

Grain line on a pattern must be parallel to the selvedge; a garment cut off-grain twists in wear and cannot be corrected by pressing alone.

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back neck to waist, front neck to waist, sleeve length, armhole circumference, inseam; measure over light clothing with the tape snug, not tight.

Drafting starts from a basic block (sloper) with no design ease; working patterns add design ease, seam allowance and wearing ease separately.

Standard seam allowance: 1 cm (10 mm) on most seams, 1.5–2 cm on side seams and centre back, 4–5 cm on hems; necklines and armholes often 1 cm.

Dart principle: a dart converts flat fabric to a 3D shape; the apex sits 2–3 cm away from the bust point so the dart point does not pucker.

Bust dart can be rotated to shoulder, armhole, waist, neckline or side seam without changing fit, provided the apex stays fixed.

Sleeve cap height controls fit: a higher cap gives a formal, close-fitting sleeve with more ease to set in; a lower cap gives a looser, more comfortable sleeve.

Grading moves each pattern point by a fixed increment per size (commonly 1 cm at bust, 1 cm at waist, 1.25 cm at hip per size step) to keep proportions.

Trueing a pattern means checking that adjoining seams are equal in length after dart and curve correction; walk the seams to confirm.

Fabric is laid on grain, right side up (or folded for symmetric pieces); all pattern pieces are placed in one direction on nap, pile or one-way print fabrics to avoid shade variation.

Cutting rules: sharp shears, long clean strokes, cut notches outward, never lift the fabric off the table; a blunt blade frays and distorts the edge.

Straight stitch (lockstitch) length 2.5–3 mm for seams; 1.5–2 mm for topstitching; basting by hand uses 4–6 mm running stitches.

Seam types: plain (open pressed), French (encloses raw edges, best on light fabrics), flat fell (strong, double-stitched, used on denim and shirt side seams), overlock (neatens and joins).

Stitch balance: correct tension shows the knot between the two fabric layers; upper tension too tight pulls the bobbin thread to the top surface.

Set-in sleeves: ease the cap between notches with two rows of long stitches, distribute fullness over the cap, never at the underarm.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible; the invisible zip is installed before the seam is sewn closed, using a special foot.

Pressing is part of construction: press each seam as sewn, then press open on a seam roll; do not press over pins or drag the iron.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem/outline, chain, satin, French knot, lazy daisy, cross stitch; each is chosen by line weight and required coverage.

Appliqué attaches a shaped fabric piece to a base with turned-under edges and a narrow satin, blanket or blind stitch; fusible web may replace turning.

Smocking uses evenly spaced gathering rows plus decorative stitches to control fullness; it requires 2.5–3 times the finished width of fabric.

Quilting is stitching through two layers with wadding between; the stitch lines hold the batting and create surface texture.

Bead and sequin work is stitched on a frame or hoop with a beading needle; secure thread with a back stitch at start and finish so embellishment survives washing.

Lace insertion and edging are attached by hand with small overcast or whip stitches; machine zigzag can substitute on stable fabrics.

Fabric painting and block printing need a pre-washed fabric and a heat-set fixative; test on a scrap because dyes bleed along synthetic fibres.

Decorative hem finishes: scalloped, picot, lace-edged, tasselled and shell edge; each changes the hem allowance and should be planned before cutting.

Finishing sequence: trim threads, clip and notch curves, grade seam allowances, press, understitch facings, then hem.

Understitching (stitching the seam allowance to the facing) prevents the facing rolling to the outside; it is done 2 mm from the seam on the facing side.

Hem depth: 2.5–4 cm for skirts and trousers, 1–1.5 cm for lightweight or flared hems; a blind hem is invisible on the face, a machine hem is stronger.

Clipping is for inside curves (necklines), notching for outside curves (collars); clip to but not through the stitching line.

Facing and interfacing give shape to necklines, armholes, waistbands and cuffs; fusible interfacing is applied with heat and pressure, not sliding.

Fastenings must be completed before final pressing: buttons aligned to buttonholes, hooks and eyes at waistband ends, snap fasteners reinforced with tape.

Final inspection checklist: even hem, matched seams, balanced collar points, working buttonholes, no puckers, no loose threads, correct grain.

Fit sequence: shoulder and neckline first, then bust, waist, hip, sleeve and length; correct in that order because upper corrections change lower ones.

Common alterations: sway back (horizontal tuck at centre back), rounded shoulders (raise shoulder seam), broad back (let out centre back), full bust (dart enlargement).

A garment is on grain when the centre front and centre back hang vertically and the side seams do not spiral; check before marking hem.

Ease: wearing ease allows movement (typically 4–6 cm at bust, 2–3 cm at waist, 5–8 cm at hip); design ease is the extra for style.

Quality control points: stitch density (10–12 stitches per inch), seam strength, colourfastness, dimensional stability after washing, symmetry of left and right.

A 4-point fabric inspection system assigns 1–4 penalty points per defect; a roll passes if points per 100 square yards stay under the agreed limit.

Fit is confirmed by the wearer sitting, raising arms and walking; a garment that restricts these movements is not correctly fitted.

Care label symbols: washtub = washing (dots give temperature), triangle = bleaching, square with circle = tumble drying, iron = ironing (dots give temperature), circle = dry cleaning.

Wool: hand wash or dry clean, cool iron with a damp cloth, dry flat to avoid stretching; never tumble dry.

Cotton: machine wash up to 60 °C, hot iron, can be bleached; viscose loses strength when wet and must not be wrung.

Silk: mild detergent, no direct sun drying, cool iron on the reverse; perspiration and deodorant damage silk fibres.

Sewing machine maintenance: remove the needle plate and clean lint after each project, oil according to the manual, and change the needle every 8–10 hours of use.

Needle selection: 70/10 for chiffon and silk, 80/12 for cotton shirting, 90/14 for denim and canvas; a bent or blunt needle causes skipped stitches and pulls.

Storage: hang structured garments on shaped hangers, fold knits, store in a dry, ventilated place away from sunlight, use cedar or silica to deter insects and damp.

Total cost = material cost + labour cost + overhead cost; selling price = total cost + profit margin (or total cost ÷ (1 − desired margin) when margin is a percentage of price).

Material costing includes fabric (with wastage of 5–10%), thread, interfacing, buttons, zips, lining and packaging.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Labour costing uses standard minute value: labour cost per garment = (minutes taken ÷ 60) × hourly wage.

Occupational hazards in the workshop: needle-prick injuries, repetitive strain, dust and fibre inhalation, poor posture, electrical risk from irons and machines.

Safety rules: guard on the machine, keep fingers away from the needle path, unplug irons when not in use, keep the floor dry, use a thimble and sharp shears correctly.

Ergonomics: adjustable chair height so the elbows are level with the machine bed, feet flat on the floor, task lighting from the left for right-handed operators.

Record keeping for a small enterprise: order book, purchase register, wage register, stock register and daily production log support pricing and tax compliance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge; weft yarns run crosswise. Fabric stretches least along the warp and most along the bias (45°).

Plain weave: maximum interlacement, firm and stable, low drape. Twill weave: diagonal wale, higher yarn float, better drape and soil hiding. Satin weave: long floats, high lustre, lowest abrasion resistance.

Thread count is the number of warp plus weft yarns per square inch; a higher count generally gives a smoother, finer fabric but not necessarily a stronger one.

Natural fibres: cotton (cellulose, absorbs well, burns like paper), wool (protein, flame-retardant, felts with heat + moisture + friction), silk (protein filament, strongest natural fibre), linen (cellulose, stiff, creases easily).

Regenerated fibres (viscose/rayon) are cellulose-based but weaker when wet; synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are thermoplastic and melt rather than char on burning.

Shrinkage allowance before cutting: cotton 2–5%, viscose 4–8%, wool 2–4%; pre-shrink washable fabrics before laying out the pattern.

Fibre identification by burn test: cellulose smells of burning paper and leaves grey ash; protein smells of burnt hair and leaves crushable black beads; synthetics form a hard bead with a plastic odour.

Grain line on a pattern must be parallel to the selvedge; a garment cut off-grain twists in wear and cannot be corrected by pressing alone.

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back neck to waist, front neck to waist, sleeve length, armhole circumference, inseam; measure over light clothing with the tape snug, not tight.

Drafting starts from a basic block (sloper) with no design ease; working patterns add design ease, seam allowance and wearing ease separately.

Standard seam allowance: 1 cm (10 mm) on most seams, 1.5–2 cm on side seams and centre back, 4–5 cm on hems; necklines and armholes often 1 cm.

Dart principle: a dart converts flat fabric to a 3D shape; the apex sits 2–3 cm away from the bust point so the dart point does not pucker.

Bust dart can be rotated to shoulder, armhole, waist, neckline or side seam without changing fit, provided the apex stays fixed.

Sleeve cap height controls fit: a higher cap gives a formal, close-fitting sleeve with more ease to set in; a lower cap gives a looser, more comfortable sleeve.

Grading moves each pattern point by a fixed increment per size (commonly 1 cm at bust, 1 cm at waist, 1.25 cm at hip per size step) to keep proportions.

Trueing a pattern means checking that adjoining seams are equal in length after dart and curve correction; walk the seams to confirm.

Fabric is laid on grain, right side up (or folded for symmetric pieces); all pattern pieces are placed in one direction on nap, pile or one-way print fabrics to avoid shade variation.

Cutting rules: sharp shears, long clean strokes, cut notches outward, never lift the fabric off the table; a blunt blade frays and distorts the edge.

Straight stitch (lockstitch) length 2.5–3 mm for seams; 1.5–2 mm for topstitching; basting by hand uses 4–6 mm running stitches.

Seam types: plain (open pressed), French (encloses raw edges, best on light fabrics), flat fell (strong, double-stitched, used on denim and shirt side seams), overlock (neatens and joins).

Stitch balance: correct tension shows the knot between the two fabric layers; upper tension too tight pulls the bobbin thread to the top surface.

Set-in sleeves: ease the cap between notches with two rows of long stitches, distribute fullness over the cap, never at the underarm.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible; the invisible zip is installed before the seam is sewn closed, using a special foot.

Pressing is part of construction: press each seam as sewn, then press open on a seam roll; do not press over pins or drag the iron.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem/outline, chain, satin, French knot, lazy daisy, cross stitch; each is chosen by line weight and required coverage.

Appliqué attaches a shaped fabric piece to a base with turned-under edges and a narrow satin, blanket or blind stitch; fusible web may replace turning.

Smocking uses evenly spaced gathering rows plus decorative stitches to control fullness; it requires 2.5–3 times the finished width of fabric.

Quilting is stitching through two layers with wadding between; the stitch lines hold the batting and create surface texture.

Bead and sequin work is stitched on a frame or hoop with a beading needle; secure thread with a back stitch at start and finish so embellishment survives washing.

Lace insertion and edging are attached by hand with small overcast or whip stitches; machine zigzag can substitute on stable fabrics.

Fabric painting and block printing need a pre-washed fabric and a heat-set fixative; test on a scrap because dyes bleed along synthetic fibres.

Decorative hem finishes: scalloped, picot, lace-edged, tasselled and shell edge; each changes the hem allowance and should be planned before cutting.

Finishing sequence: trim threads, clip and notch curves, grade seam allowances, press, understitch facings, then hem.

Understitching (stitching the seam allowance to the facing) prevents the facing rolling to the outside; it is done 2 mm from the seam on the facing side.

Hem depth: 2.5–4 cm for skirts and trousers, 1–1.5 cm for lightweight or flared hems; a blind hem is invisible on the face, a machine hem is stronger.

Clipping is for inside curves (necklines), notching for outside curves (collars); clip to but not through the stitching line.

Facing and interfacing give shape to necklines, armholes, waistbands and cuffs; fusible interfacing is applied with heat and pressure, not sliding.

Fastenings must be completed before final pressing: buttons aligned to buttonholes, hooks and eyes at waistband ends, snap fasteners reinforced with tape.

Final inspection checklist: even hem, matched seams, balanced collar points, working buttonholes, no puckers, no loose threads, correct grain.

Fit sequence: shoulder and neckline first, then bust, waist, hip, sleeve and length; correct in that order because upper corrections change lower ones.

Common alterations: sway back (horizontal tuck at centre back), rounded shoulders (raise shoulder seam), broad back (let out centre back), full bust (dart enlargement).

A garment is on grain when the centre front and centre back hang vertically and the side seams do not spiral; check before marking hem.

Ease: wearing ease allows movement (typically 4–6 cm at bust, 2–3 cm at waist, 5–8 cm at hip); design ease is the extra for style.

Quality control points: stitch density (10–12 stitches per inch), seam strength, colourfastness, dimensional stability after washing, symmetry of left and right.

A 4-point fabric inspection system assigns 1–4 penalty points per defect; a roll passes if points per 100 square yards stay under the agreed limit.

Fit is confirmed by the wearer sitting, raising arms and walking; a garment that restricts these movements is not correctly fitted.

Care label symbols: washtub = washing (dots give temperature), triangle = bleaching, square with circle = tumble drying, iron = ironing (dots give temperature), circle = dry cleaning.

Wool: hand wash or dry clean, cool iron with a damp cloth, dry flat to avoid stretching; never tumble dry.

Cotton: machine wash up to 60 °C, hot iron, can be bleached; viscose loses strength when wet and must not be wrung.

Silk: mild detergent, no direct sun drying, cool iron on the reverse; perspiration and deodorant damage silk fibres.

Sewing machine maintenance: remove the needle plate and clean lint after each project, oil according to the manual, and change the needle every 8–10 hours of use.

Needle selection: 70/10 for chiffon and silk, 80/12 for cotton shirting, 90/14 for denim and canvas; a bent or blunt needle causes skipped stitches and pulls.

Storage: hang structured garments on shaped hangers, fold knits, store in a dry, ventilated place away from sunlight, use cedar or silica to deter insects and damp.

Total cost = material cost + labour cost + overhead cost; selling price = total cost + profit margin (or total cost ÷ (1 − desired margin) when margin is a percentage of price).

Material costing includes fabric (with wastage of 5–10%), thread, interfacing, buttons, zips, lining and packaging.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Labour costing uses standard minute value: labour cost per garment = (minutes taken ÷ 60) × hourly wage.

Occupational hazards in the workshop: needle-prick injuries, repetitive strain, dust and fibre inhalation, poor posture, electrical risk from irons and machines.

Safety rules: guard on the machine, keep fingers away from the needle path, unplug irons when not in use, keep the floor dry, use a thimble and sharp shears correctly.

Ergonomics: adjustable chair height so the elbows are level with the machine bed, feet flat on the floor, task lighting from the left for right-handed operators.

Record keeping for a small enterprise: order book, purchase register, wage register, stock register and daily production log support pricing and tax compliance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge; weft yarns run crosswise. Fabric stretches least along the warp and most along the bias (45°).

Plain weave: maximum interlacement, firm and stable, low drape. Twill weave: diagonal wale, higher yarn float, better drape and soil hiding. Satin weave: long floats, high lustre, lowest abrasion resistance.

Thread count is the number of warp plus weft yarns per square inch; a higher count generally gives a smoother, finer fabric but not necessarily a stronger one.

Natural fibres: cotton (cellulose, absorbs well, burns like paper), wool (protein, flame-retardant, felts with heat + moisture + friction), silk (protein filament, strongest natural fibre), linen (cellulose, stiff, creases easily).

Regenerated fibres (viscose/rayon) are cellulose-based but weaker when wet; synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are thermoplastic and melt rather than char on burning.

Shrinkage allowance before cutting: cotton 2–5%, viscose 4–8%, wool 2–4%; pre-shrink washable fabrics before laying out the pattern.

Fibre identification by burn test: cellulose smells of burning paper and leaves grey ash; protein smells of burnt hair and leaves crushable black beads; synthetics form a hard bead with a plastic odour.

Grain line on a pattern must be parallel to the selvedge; a garment cut off-grain twists in wear and cannot be corrected by pressing alone.

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back neck to waist, front neck to waist, sleeve length, armhole circumference, inseam; measure over light clothing with the tape snug, not tight.

Drafting starts from a basic block (sloper) with no design ease; working patterns add design ease, seam allowance and wearing ease separately.

Standard seam allowance: 1 cm (10 mm) on most seams, 1.5–2 cm on side seams and centre back, 4–5 cm on hems; necklines and armholes often 1 cm.

Dart principle: a dart converts flat fabric to a 3D shape; the apex sits 2–3 cm away from the bust point so the dart point does not pucker.

Bust dart can be rotated to shoulder, armhole, waist, neckline or side seam without changing fit, provided the apex stays fixed.

Sleeve cap height controls fit: a higher cap gives a formal, close-fitting sleeve with more ease to set in; a lower cap gives a looser, more comfortable sleeve.

Grading moves each pattern point by a fixed increment per size (commonly 1 cm at bust, 1 cm at waist, 1.25 cm at hip per size step) to keep proportions.

Trueing a pattern means checking that adjoining seams are equal in length after dart and curve correction; walk the seams to confirm.

Fabric is laid on grain, right side up (or folded for symmetric pieces); all pattern pieces are placed in one direction on nap, pile or one-way print fabrics to avoid shade variation.

Cutting rules: sharp shears, long clean strokes, cut notches outward, never lift the fabric off the table; a blunt blade frays and distorts the edge.

Straight stitch (lockstitch) length 2.5–3 mm for seams; 1.5–2 mm for topstitching; basting by hand uses 4–6 mm running stitches.

Seam types: plain (open pressed), French (encloses raw edges, best on light fabrics), flat fell (strong, double-stitched, used on denim and shirt side seams), overlock (neatens and joins).

Stitch balance: correct tension shows the knot between the two fabric layers; upper tension too tight pulls the bobbin thread to the top surface.

Set-in sleeves: ease the cap between notches with two rows of long stitches, distribute fullness over the cap, never at the underarm.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible; the invisible zip is installed before the seam is sewn closed, using a special foot.

Pressing is part of construction: press each seam as sewn, then press open on a seam roll; do not press over pins or drag the iron.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem/outline, chain, satin, French knot, lazy daisy, cross stitch; each is chosen by line weight and required coverage.

Appliqué attaches a shaped fabric piece to a base with turned-under edges and a narrow satin, blanket or blind stitch; fusible web may replace turning.

Smocking uses evenly spaced gathering rows plus decorative stitches to control fullness; it requires 2.5–3 times the finished width of fabric.

Quilting is stitching through two layers with wadding between; the stitch lines hold the batting and create surface texture.

Bead and sequin work is stitched on a frame or hoop with a beading needle; secure thread with a back stitch at start and finish so embellishment survives washing.

Lace insertion and edging are attached by hand with small overcast or whip stitches; machine zigzag can substitute on stable fabrics.

Fabric painting and block printing need a pre-washed fabric and a heat-set fixative; test on a scrap because dyes bleed along synthetic fibres.

Decorative hem finishes: scalloped, picot, lace-edged, tasselled and shell edge; each changes the hem allowance and should be planned before cutting.

Finishing sequence: trim threads, clip and notch curves, grade seam allowances, press, understitch facings, then hem.

Understitching (stitching the seam allowance to the facing) prevents the facing rolling to the outside; it is done 2 mm from the seam on the facing side.

Hem depth: 2.5–4 cm for skirts and trousers, 1–1.5 cm for lightweight or flared hems; a blind hem is invisible on the face, a machine hem is stronger.

Clipping is for inside curves (necklines), notching for outside curves (collars); clip to but not through the stitching line.

Facing and interfacing give shape to necklines, armholes, waistbands and cuffs; fusible interfacing is applied with heat and pressure, not sliding.

Fastenings must be completed before final pressing: buttons aligned to buttonholes, hooks and eyes at waistband ends, snap fasteners reinforced with tape.

Final inspection checklist: even hem, matched seams, balanced collar points, working buttonholes, no puckers, no loose threads, correct grain.

Fit sequence: shoulder and neckline first, then bust, waist, hip, sleeve and length; correct in that order because upper corrections change lower ones.

Common alterations: sway back (horizontal tuck at centre back), rounded shoulders (raise shoulder seam), broad back (let out centre back), full bust (dart enlargement).

A garment is on grain when the centre front and centre back hang vertically and the side seams do not spiral; check before marking hem.

Ease: wearing ease allows movement (typically 4–6 cm at bust, 2–3 cm at waist, 5–8 cm at hip); design ease is the extra for style.

Quality control points: stitch density (10–12 stitches per inch), seam strength, colourfastness, dimensional stability after washing, symmetry of left and right.

A 4-point fabric inspection system assigns 1–4 penalty points per defect; a roll passes if points per 100 square yards stay under the agreed limit.

Fit is confirmed by the wearer sitting, raising arms and walking; a garment that restricts these movements is not correctly fitted.

Care label symbols: washtub = washing (dots give temperature), triangle = bleaching, square with circle = tumble drying, iron = ironing (dots give temperature), circle = dry cleaning.

Wool: hand wash or dry clean, cool iron with a damp cloth, dry flat to avoid stretching; never tumble dry.

Cotton: machine wash up to 60 °C, hot iron, can be bleached; viscose loses strength when wet and must not be wrung.

Silk: mild detergent, no direct sun drying, cool iron on the reverse; perspiration and deodorant damage silk fibres.

Sewing machine maintenance: remove the needle plate and clean lint after each project, oil according to the manual, and change the needle every 8–10 hours of use.

Needle selection: 70/10 for chiffon and silk, 80/12 for cotton shirting, 90/14 for denim and canvas; a bent or blunt needle causes skipped stitches and pulls.

Storage: hang structured garments on shaped hangers, fold knits, store in a dry, ventilated place away from sunlight, use cedar or silica to deter insects and damp.

Total cost = material cost + labour cost + overhead cost; selling price = total cost + profit margin (or total cost ÷ (1 − desired margin) when margin is a percentage of price).

Material costing includes fabric (with wastage of 5–10%), thread, interfacing, buttons, zips, lining and packaging.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Labour costing uses standard minute value: labour cost per garment = (minutes taken ÷ 60) × hourly wage.

Occupational hazards in the workshop: needle-prick injuries, repetitive strain, dust and fibre inhalation, poor posture, electrical risk from irons and machines.

Safety rules: guard on the machine, keep fingers away from the needle path, unplug irons when not in use, keep the floor dry, use a thimble and sharp shears correctly.

Ergonomics: adjustable chair height so the elbows are level with the machine bed, feet flat on the floor, task lighting from the left for right-handed operators.

Record keeping for a small enterprise: order book, purchase register, wage register, stock register and daily production log support pricing and tax compliance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge; weft yarns run crosswise. Fabric stretches least along the warp and most along the bias (45°).

Plain weave: maximum interlacement, firm and stable, low drape. Twill weave: diagonal wale, higher yarn float, better drape and soil hiding. Satin weave: long floats, high lustre, lowest abrasion resistance.

Thread count is the number of warp plus weft yarns per square inch; a higher count generally gives a smoother, finer fabric but not necessarily a stronger one.

Natural fibres: cotton (cellulose, absorbs well, burns like paper), wool (protein, flame-retardant, felts with heat + moisture + friction), silk (protein filament, strongest natural fibre), linen (cellulose, stiff, creases easily).

Regenerated fibres (viscose/rayon) are cellulose-based but weaker when wet; synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon, acrylic) are thermoplastic and melt rather than char on burning.

Shrinkage allowance before cutting: cotton 2–5%, viscose 4–8%, wool 2–4%; pre-shrink washable fabrics before laying out the pattern.

Fibre identification by burn test: cellulose smells of burning paper and leaves grey ash; protein smells of burnt hair and leaves crushable black beads; synthetics form a hard bead with a plastic odour.

Grain line on a pattern must be parallel to the selvedge; a garment cut off-grain twists in wear and cannot be corrected by pressing alone.

Body measurements for drafting: bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder width, back neck to waist, front neck to waist, sleeve length, armhole circumference, inseam; measure over light clothing with the tape snug, not tight.

Drafting starts from a basic block (sloper) with no design ease; working patterns add design ease, seam allowance and wearing ease separately.

Standard seam allowance: 1 cm (10 mm) on most seams, 1.5–2 cm on side seams and centre back, 4–5 cm on hems; necklines and armholes often 1 cm.

Dart principle: a dart converts flat fabric to a 3D shape; the apex sits 2–3 cm away from the bust point so the dart point does not pucker.

Bust dart can be rotated to shoulder, armhole, waist, neckline or side seam without changing fit, provided the apex stays fixed.

Sleeve cap height controls fit: a higher cap gives a formal, close-fitting sleeve with more ease to set in; a lower cap gives a looser, more comfortable sleeve.

Grading moves each pattern point by a fixed increment per size (commonly 1 cm at bust, 1 cm at waist, 1.25 cm at hip per size step) to keep proportions.

Trueing a pattern means checking that adjoining seams are equal in length after dart and curve correction; walk the seams to confirm.

Fabric is laid on grain, right side up (or folded for symmetric pieces); all pattern pieces are placed in one direction on nap, pile or one-way print fabrics to avoid shade variation.

Cutting rules: sharp shears, long clean strokes, cut notches outward, never lift the fabric off the table; a blunt blade frays and distorts the edge.

Straight stitch (lockstitch) length 2.5–3 mm for seams; 1.5–2 mm for topstitching; basting by hand uses 4–6 mm running stitches.

Seam types: plain (open pressed), French (encloses raw edges, best on light fabrics), flat fell (strong, double-stitched, used on denim and shirt side seams), overlock (neatens and joins).

Stitch balance: correct tension shows the knot between the two fabric layers; upper tension too tight pulls the bobbin thread to the top surface.

Set-in sleeves: ease the cap between notches with two rows of long stitches, distribute fullness over the cap, never at the underarm.

Zipper insertion: centred, lapped and invisible; the invisible zip is installed before the seam is sewn closed, using a special foot.

Pressing is part of construction: press each seam as sewn, then press open on a seam roll; do not press over pins or drag the iron.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem/outline, chain, satin, French knot, lazy daisy, cross stitch; each is chosen by line weight and required coverage.

Appliqué attaches a shaped fabric piece to a base with turned-under edges and a narrow satin, blanket or blind stitch; fusible web may replace turning.

Smocking uses evenly spaced gathering rows plus decorative stitches to control fullness; it requires 2.5–3 times the finished width of fabric.

Quilting is stitching through two layers with wadding between; the stitch lines hold the batting and create surface texture.

Bead and sequin work is stitched on a frame or hoop with a beading needle; secure thread with a back stitch at start and finish so embellishment survives washing.

Lace insertion and edging are attached by hand with small overcast or whip stitches; machine zigzag can substitute on stable fabrics.

Fabric painting and block printing need a pre-washed fabric and a heat-set fixative; test on a scrap because dyes bleed along synthetic fibres.

Decorative hem finishes: scalloped, picot, lace-edged, tasselled and shell edge; each changes the hem allowance and should be planned before cutting.

Finishing sequence: trim threads, clip and notch curves, grade seam allowances, press, understitch facings, then hem.

Understitching (stitching the seam allowance to the facing) prevents the facing rolling to the outside; it is done 2 mm from the seam on the facing side.

Hem depth: 2.5–4 cm for skirts and trousers, 1–1.5 cm for lightweight or flared hems; a blind hem is invisible on the face, a machine hem is stronger.

Clipping is for inside curves (necklines), notching for outside curves (collars); clip to but not through the stitching line.

Facing and interfacing give shape to necklines, armholes, waistbands and cuffs; fusible interfacing is applied with heat and pressure, not sliding.

Fastenings must be completed before final pressing: buttons aligned to buttonholes, hooks and eyes at waistband ends, snap fasteners reinforced with tape.

Final inspection checklist: even hem, matched seams, balanced collar points, working buttonholes, no puckers, no loose threads, correct grain.

Fit sequence: shoulder and neckline first, then bust, waist, hip, sleeve and length; correct in that order because upper corrections change lower ones.

Common alterations: sway back (horizontal tuck at centre back), rounded shoulders (raise shoulder seam), broad back (let out centre back), full bust (dart enlargement).

A garment is on grain when the centre front and centre back hang vertically and the side seams do not spiral; check before marking hem.

Ease: wearing ease allows movement (typically 4–6 cm at bust, 2–3 cm at waist, 5–8 cm at hip); design ease is the extra for style.

Quality control points: stitch density (10–12 stitches per inch), seam strength, colourfastness, dimensional stability after washing, symmetry of left and right.

A 4-point fabric inspection system assigns 1–4 penalty points per defect; a roll passes if points per 100 square yards stay under the agreed limit.

Fit is confirmed by the wearer sitting, raising arms and walking; a garment that restricts these movements is not correctly fitted.

Care label symbols: washtub = washing (dots give temperature), triangle = bleaching, square with circle = tumble drying, iron = ironing (dots give temperature), circle = dry cleaning.

Wool: hand wash or dry clean, cool iron with a damp cloth, dry flat to avoid stretching; never tumble dry.

Cotton: machine wash up to 60 °C, hot iron, can be bleached; viscose loses strength when wet and must not be wrung.

Silk: mild detergent, no direct sun drying, cool iron on the reverse; perspiration and deodorant damage silk fibres.

Sewing machine maintenance: remove the needle plate and clean lint after each project, oil according to the manual, and change the needle every 8–10 hours of use.

Needle selection: 70/10 for chiffon and silk, 80/12 for cotton shirting, 90/14 for denim and canvas; a bent or blunt needle causes skipped stitches and pulls.

Storage: hang structured garments on shaped hangers, fold knits, store in a dry, ventilated place away from sunlight, use cedar or silica to deter insects and damp.

Total cost = material cost + labour cost + overhead cost; selling price = total cost + profit margin (or total cost ÷ (1 − desired margin) when margin is a percentage of price).

Material costing includes fabric (with wastage of 5–10%), thread, interfacing, buttons, zips, lining and packaging.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs ÷ (selling price per unit − variable cost per unit).

Labour costing uses standard minute value: labour cost per garment = (minutes taken ÷ 60) × hourly wage.

Occupational hazards in the workshop: needle-prick injuries, repetitive strain, dust and fibre inhalation, poor posture, electrical risk from irons and machines.

Safety rules: guard on the machine, keep fingers away from the needle path, unplug irons when not in use, keep the floor dry, use a thimble and sharp shears correctly.

Ergonomics: adjustable chair height so the elbows are level with the machine bed, feet flat on the floor, task lighting from the left for right-handed operators.

Record keeping for a small enterprise: order book, purchase register, wage register, stock register and daily production log support pricing and tax compliance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.

Project workflow: design brief → measurements → pattern draft → fabric and notion selection → layout and cutting → construction → finishing → inspection → costing.

Fabric requirement estimate: garment area ÷ usable fabric width, plus 10% for matching, shrinkage and wastage; pattern pieces are laid to minimise the leftover.

Sample book practice: record a stitched sample of every seam, hem, dart and fastening with its settings so the workshop can repeat the result.

Tool kit for a project: measuring tape, shears, pinking shears, seam ripper, pins, hand needles, thimble, tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, French curve, set square.

A children's garment uses smaller seam allowances on the inside (1 cm) and wider hems; growth tucks allow the garment to be let down later.

Workroom discipline: keep the cutting table clear, label pattern pieces, store pins in a magnetic holder, and return tools after each session.

Evaluation of a finished project uses a rubric: accuracy of measurement, grain and cutting, stitch quality, finish, fit and overall appearance.