UPMSP Vocational Dressmaking & Decoration key terms

The two basic yarn directions in woven fabric: warp threads run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge, while weft (filling) threads run crosswise. Their interlacing pattern determines grain, strength and stretch behaviour.

The firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric. It marks the warp direction and should not be used inside a garment seam because it puckers.

A diagonal direction across woven fabric at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias-cut strips stretch and curve easily, making them suitable for binding curved edges and for drape.

The lengthwise direction of a woven fabric, parallel to the selvedge. Pattern pieces carry a grain-line arrow that must be aligned with it so the finished garment hangs correctly.

The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or pressing, common in cotton and viscose. Pre-shrinking or preshrinking the fabric before cutting prevents a finished garment from becoming too small.

Treating fabric by washing, soaking or steaming before cutting so most of its shrinkage occurs in advance. It protects the final garment size and appearance after the first home wash.

Constructing a paper pattern from body measurements using calculated blocks and curves rather than copying an existing pattern. It allows individual fit and is the base skill for original designs.

A basic, close-fitting pattern set for bodice, skirt or sleeve, drafted to standard or personal measurements without design features. It is traced and modified to create new styles.

Systematically increasing or decreasing pattern dimensions to produce a range of sizes from one master pattern. Rules differ by size step and body area, especially at bust, waist and hip.

Extra width added outside the stitching line on a pattern so the pieces can be joined and finished. Standard allowances are often 1 cm to 1.5 cm, larger at hems and closures.

A triangular fold stitched into fabric to remove excess fullness and shape it to body curves, as at bust, waist or shoulder. Dart legs, point and intake must be marked accurately.

A plain, inexpensive cotton fabric used to sew a test garment, also called a toile, from a new pattern. Fitting on the muslin reveals corrections before cutting the final fabric.

A small mark cut into the seam allowance edge to show where pattern pieces align during sewing. Matching notches prevents twisting and misalignment of joined edges.

Cutting small slits into a seam allowance at inward curves so the seam can spread and lie flat. Snips must stop short of the stitching line to avoid a hole.

Trimming the two layers of a seam allowance to different widths, usually leaving the layer nearest the garment longer. This reduces bulk and gives a smoother, flatter edge.

Stitching close to the seam on the facing or lining side after pressing, catching the allowances underneath. It keeps facings rolled to the inside and prevents them showing at the edge.

A shaped piece of fabric sewn to a garment edge and turned inside to finish and support it, as at necklines and armholes. It is usually interfaced and cut to match the edge shape.

A stabilising layer attached to the wrong side of fabric at collars, cuffs, plackets and waistbands. It adds body, prevents stretching and helps the garment hold its intended shape.

A line of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on curved edges such as necklines, before construction. It stops the edge stretching out of shape during handling.

An enclosed seam made by stitching the wrong sides together, trimming, then stitching again with right sides together. It hides raw edges and suits fine, sheer fabrics.

A strong, flat seam with both raw edges enclosed and topstitched down, common on jeans and shirts. It withstands hard wear and gives a neat double-stitched appearance.

A visible row of stitching worked on the right side of the garment, often parallel to an edge or seam. It decorates, holds allowances flat and reinforces stress areas.

Topstitching worked very close to a folded edge or seam line, usually 2 mm to 3 mm away. It sharpens the edge and keeps facings and hems from rolling.

Decorating fabric with stitches, by hand or machine, to create motifs, borders and texture. Common hand stitches include satin, chain and stem stitch worked on a hoop.

Cutting a fabric shape and stitching it onto a base fabric to form a design. The raw edges may be turned under, satin-stitched or finished with a buttonhole stitch.

Traditional Indian metallic embellishment using fine gold- or silver-coloured thread, often on silk. It is worked in embroidery or woven into brocade for festive and bridal wear.

Attaching small shiny discs to fabric, by hand or machine, to create sparkle and pattern. Sequins must be secured firmly so they survive wear and cleaning.

Sewing beads onto fabric in lines or motifs for decoration. Strong thread and secure anchoring are needed because beads add weight and can break loose in washing.

Joining small pieces of fabric edge to edge to build a larger patterned panel. Accurate seam allowances and pressing keep the joined surface flat and even.

Stitching through two layers of fabric with a filling between them to create padding and raised patterns. Lines of stitching hold the layers together and add texture.

The method used to turn up and secure the lower edge of a garment, such as a double-folded stitched hem or a blind hem. Choice depends on fabric weight and desired visibility.

A strip cut on the bias and folded to enclose a raw edge, used on necklines, armholes and hems. Its stretch lets it follow curves without puckering.

A hem secured with tiny stitches that barely show on the right side, often worked by machine with a blind hem foot. It gives a clean finish on formal and medium-weight fabrics.

Using an iron with up-and-down motion and steam to shape seams and fabric during construction. It differs from ironing, which slides the iron and can stretch the garment.

A piece of cotton or muslin laid between the iron and the garment to protect the surface. It prevents shine, scorching and melting on delicate or synthetic fabrics.

The difference between body measurements and garment measurements that allows movement and comfort, plus the extra fullness worked into a sleeve cap or curved seam.

Adjusting a pattern or garment to correct problems such as gaping necklines, tight armholes or drag lines. Alterations are made on the muslin first, then transferred to the pattern.

Checking garments against set standards at each stage, for stitch density, seam strength, symmetry, measurements and finish. Faults are recorded and corrected before packing.

The number of stitches per unit length, usually expressed as stitches per inch or centimetre. Too few stitches give weak seams; too many weaken the fabric and cause puckering.

A permanent label giving washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions for a garment. It must reflect the most delicate component, such as lining or trim.

A record of all costs in producing a garment: fabric, trims, labour, overheads and finishing, used to set a selling price and calculate profit margin.

The amount added to production cost to arrive at the selling price, often stated as a percentage. It must cover overheads, wastage and the intended profit.

The sales volume at which total revenue equals total cost, so neither profit nor loss is made. Knowing it helps a small tailoring unit set realistic production targets.

Practices that protect workers from workshop hazards such as needle injuries, machine guards, electrical faults, dust and poor posture. It includes training, protective equipment and safe housekeeping.

A first completed version of a design, sewn to check pattern accuracy, fit, construction and finish before bulk production. It is measured and approved against the specification sheet.