UPMSP Vocational Dressmaking & Decoration flashcards
UPMSP Vocational Dressmaking & Decoration · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Selvedge
- The self-finished lengthwise edge of woven fabric where the weft turns back. It does not fray, so pattern pieces are aligned to it to keep the grain line correct.
- Bias grain
- The direction at 45 degrees to warp and weft. Bias fabric has the greatest stretch and drape, so it is used for bias binding, cowl necks and soft flares.
- Twill weave
- A weave with a diagonal wale produced by passing the weft over two or more warp yarns. It drapes better than plain weave and hides soil, as in denim and gabardine.
- Burn test
- A fibre identification method. Cellulose fibres smell of burning paper and leave grey ash; protein fibres smell of burnt hair and leave crushable black beads; synthetics melt into a hard bead.
- Basic block
- A close-fitting pattern with no design ease, drafted from body measurements. It is the starting point from which working patterns are developed by adding ease and style lines.
- Dart rotation
- Moving a dart from one seam to another while keeping the apex fixed. The fit and fabric volume stay the same; only the position of the shaping changes.
- Grain line marking
- A line drawn on the pattern parallel to the centre front or centre back. It must be placed parallel to the selvedge when cutting to prevent the garment twisting.
- Sleeve cap height
- The depth of the curved top of a sleeve pattern. A higher cap fits closer and needs more easing; a lower cap gives a looser sleeve with easier setting.
- Trueing a pattern
- Correcting pattern edges so adjoining seams match in length and shape after darts and curves are added. Seams are walked together to confirm the fit.
- Seam allowance
- The extra fabric beyond the stitching line, commonly one centimetre on seams and four to five centimetres on hems. It allows the seam to be sewn and finished.
- French seam
- A seam that encloses its raw edges inside a double row of stitching. It is neat and strong on light fabrics such as voile, silk and chiffon.
- Flat fell seam
- A strong double-stitched seam with both raw edges enclosed. It is used on denim jeans, shirt side seams and workwear where durability and a clean inside matter.
- Stitch tension balance
- Correct tension places the interlocking knot between the two fabric layers. If the upper tension is too tight, the bobbin thread is pulled up and shows on the face.
- One-way layout
- Placing all pattern pieces in the same direction on fabrics with nap, pile or directional print. It prevents panels appearing in different shades in the finished garment.
- Understitching
- Stitching the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam. It stops facings and linings rolling to the outside and keeps necklines and armholes flat.
- Blind hem
- A hem where stitches pick up only a thread of the outer fabric, leaving it almost invisible from the face. It suits skirts, trousers and formal wear.
- Clipping a curve
- Cutting small snips into a seam allowance on an inside curve so it lies flat when turned. Snips stop short of the stitching line to avoid a hole.
- Notching a curve
- Removing small wedges from a seam allowance on an outside curve so it turns smoothly. It is used on collars, cuffs and pocket flaps.
- Wearing ease
- The extra circumference built into a garment beyond body measurement so the wearer can move, breathe and sit. Typical values are four to six centimetres at the bust.
- Sway back alteration
- A horizontal tuck taken across the centre back below the neckline to remove excess fabric. It corrects a garment that gapes at the back waist.
- Off-grain garment
- A garment whose lengthwise yarns do not hang vertically, so side seams spiral and the hem rises. Pressing cannot correct it; it must be recut.
- Four-point inspection
- A fabric quality system that assigns one to four penalty points per defect according to size. Rolls pass when points per hundred square yards stay within the limit.
- Care label symbols
- Standard pictograms for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry cleaning. Dots inside a symbol indicate temperature, and crossed-out symbols mean the process is prohibited.
- Machine needle sizes
- Needle size is given in metric and imperial numbers. Fine 70/10 suits silk and chiffon, 80/12 suits cotton shirting and 90/14 suits denim and canvas.
- Wool drying method
- Wool garments are dried flat on a towel in shape, never hung wet or tumble dried. Heat, moisture and friction felt the fibre and cause permanent shrinkage.
- Break-even quantity
- The number of units that must be sold for total revenue to equal total cost. It equals fixed costs divided by selling price minus variable cost per unit.
- Standard minute value
- The allowed time to complete an operation, used to cost labour. Labour cost per garment equals minutes taken divided by sixty, multiplied by the hourly wage.
- Workshop ergonomics
- Arranging the chair, table and lighting so elbows are level with the machine bed and feet rest flat. It reduces fatigue and repetitive strain injuries.
- Pattern grading
- Increasing or decreasing a pattern by fixed increments per size step, such as one centimetre at the bust, to produce a consistent size range without redrafting.
- Invisible zipper insertion
- A zip sewn into the seam before it is closed, using a special foot that conceals the teeth. The finished opening shows only a fine seam line.
- Smocking
- Decorative stitching over evenly spaced gathering rows to control fullness and add elasticity. It needs roughly two and a half to three times the finished width of fabric.
- Appliqué
- A technique of stitching a shaped fabric motif onto a base fabric. Edges are turned under or fused, then secured with satin, blanket or blind stitch.