Drafting and Pattern Making
Drafting questions test measurement accuracy, ease, seam allowance and pattern symbols. You should be able to draft a simple block, true the seams and mark a pattern so that cutting and stitching follow without confusion.
Measurements and drafting order
Take measurements over close-fitting clothing with the tape horizontal and snug but not tight. Record bust, waist, hip, shoulder, back length, sleeve length and desired garment length. Draft the back first, then the front, then sleeves and collar. Use a scale rule and keep construction lines light.
Ease and allowances
Wearing ease allows movement and breathing; design ease creates the style. A kameez may use 6 to 8 cm bust ease. Seam allowance is added after drafting: 1 cm on most seams, 1.5 cm on side seams, 2 to 4 cm on hems, and zero on a fold line. Ease and seam allowance are separate quantities.
Pattern symbols
Mark grainline parallel to centre front, fold line, notches, darts, buttonholes, cutting line and stitching line. Label the pattern with style, size, piece name and number of pieces to cut.
Worked example
Bust 92 cm with 8 cm ease gives 100 cm finished bust. The front and back each take half, so 50 cm. A quarter-bust line is 25 cm. If the side seam allowance is 1.5 cm, the cutting line sits 1.5 cm beyond the stitching line. Reasoning: ease is added to the body measurement before division; seam allowance is added to the pattern edge afterwards.
Traps
Adding ease twice; forgetting seam allowance on a neckline; measuring the waist over thick clothing; leaving dart legs unequal; not trueing seams so front and back do not match.
Key points
- Ease is added to body measurements; seam allowance is added to pattern edges.
- Draft back, front, sleeve and collar in a fixed order.
- Grainline, fold line and notches must be marked on every pattern piece.
- True seams so front and back stitching lines match.