Garment Finishing
Finishing decides whether a garment looks professional. This domain tests pressing, hem and edge finishes, interfacing, linings, buttonholes, thread trimming and final inspection.
Pressing, not ironing
Pressing lifts and lowers the iron; ironing slides it and stretches fabric. Press as you sew: seams open, darts over a ham, curves over a sleeve board. Use a pressing cloth on wool and synthetics to prevent shine. Test the iron temperature on a scrap first.
Edge and hem finishes
- Straight hem for crisp cotton.
- Blind hem for skirts and trousers.
- Rolled hem for chiffon and fine silk.
- Facing for necklines and armholes.
- Bias binding for curved edges. Interfacing supports collars, cuffs and button stands. Fuse it with heat and pressure, not by dragging the iron.
Final finishing
Trim loose threads, clean chalk marks, work buttonholes, attach buttons and labels, inspect inside and out, then give a final press and fold.
Worked example
A polyester skirt needs pressing. Cotton tolerates about 180 to 200 degrees Celsius, wool needs steam with a cloth at about 150, and polyester only about 110 to 120. Reasoning: polyester is thermoplastic, so a cotton setting can glaze or melt the surface. Use a pressing cloth and a low setting.
Traps
Pressing a seam before it is stitched; ironing over pins; stretching a neckline while pressing; using a hot iron directly on fusible interfacing; leaving chalk marks visible on dark fabric.
Key points
- Press seams as you sew; use a ham for darts and a cloth on wool and synthetics.