UPMSP Vocational Textile Design cheat sheet

Fibre classification: natural (cellulosic cotton, linen, jute; protein wool, silk) vs man-made (regenerated viscose, acetate; synthetic polyester, nylon, acrylic).

Cotton is ~90-95% cellulose; scouring removes waxes and pectins, mercerising with NaOH improves lustre, strength and dye uptake.

Wool has overlapping scales giving felting; chlorine (Hercosett) or resin shrink-resist treatments prevent it. Silk degumming removes sericin, leaving fibroin filaments.

Yarn count systems: indirect (Ne cotton, Nm metric) - higher number = finer yarn; direct (Tex = g/1000 m, denier = g/9000 m) - higher number = coarser yarn.

Conversion: Tex = 590.5/Ne (cotton); Tex = 1000/Nm; Denier = 9 × Tex.

Twist direction: S-twist (spiral like the middle of S) and Z-twist; twist multiplier TM = TPI / √Ne.

Yarn types: single, plied, cabled, core-spun, rotor (OE), ring-spun; combed yarns are smoother and stronger than carded.

Fibre properties tested: staple length, fineness (micronaire), maturity, tenacity, elongation, moisture regain (cotton ~8.5%, viscose ~13%, polyester ~0.4%).

Woven fabric = two sets of yarns (warp and weft) interlaced at right angles; knits = interlooped; nonwovens = bonded fibres.

Basic weaves: plain (1/1), twill (2/1, 3/1), satin (5-harness float); derived: rib, basket, herringbone, diamond, crepe, honeycomb.

Fabric sett is expressed as ends per inch (EPI, warp) and picks per inch (PPI, weft); cover factor compares sett to yarn diameter.

Areal density (GSM) = weight in grams per square metre; calculate as (EPI×warp Tex + PPI×weft Tex) × 0.0645 approx.

Fabric width on loom is governed by reed width; take-up and crimp reduce finished length and width - crimp % = ((yarn length − fabric length)/fabric length) × 100.

Warp preparation sequence: winding → warping → sizing → drawing-in/denting → weaving.

Selvedge is the self-edge; its type (tucked-in, leno, fused) identifies shuttle vs shuttleless looms.

Nonwoven bonding: needle-punch, thermal, chemical, spunlace; measured by GSM and air permeability.

Loom motions: primary (shedding, picking, beating-up) and secondary (let-off, take-up); stop motions are auxiliary.

Shed types: crank/tee (plain), dobby (small geometric), jacquard (large motifs); Jacquard controls individual ends via hooks and cords.

Shuttleless looms: projectile, rapier, water-jet, air-jet - higher speed, lower weft breakage, different selvedges.

Weft knitting: yarn runs horizontally, one continuous yarn; stitches form loops row by row (weft = width-wise).

Warp knitting: yarns run vertically, one yarn per needle (tricot, raschel); faster, less elastic, no ladders.

Knit notation: courses = horizontal rows, wales = vertical columns; stitch density measured as courses/cm × wales/cm (CPI × WPI).

Basic knit structures: single jersey, rib (1×1, 2×2), interlock, purl; float and tuck stitches create colour patterning.

Knitted fabric properties: higher extensibility and air permeability than woven; edge curling in jersey; run/ladder risk in weft knits.

Elements of design: line, shape, form, colour, texture, space; principles: balance, rhythm, proportion, emphasis, harmony, unity.

Repeat types: full drop (block), half-drop, brick (offset), mirror, tossed, and border/engine repeats; a design repeat must tile without visible seam.

Motif sources: floral, geometric, paisley, animal, abstract, traditional (e.g. buti, jaal, bandhani dots, ikat blur).

Colour theory: primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary, tertiary; complementary (opposite), analogous (adjacent), triadic schemes on the colour wheel.

Value = lightness/darkness; hue = colour family; saturation = purity; tints add white, shades add black, tones add grey.

Scale rule: motif size must suit fabric end-use - small repeats for shirting, large for furnishing and saris.

Design development steps: mood board → source study → motif sketching → repeat construction → colourway trials → production artwork.

Balance types: symmetrical (formal) and asymmetrical (informal); rhythm created by repetition, gradation, radiation or alternation.

Embroidery stitches: running, back, stem, chain, satin, French knot, blanket, cross; each gives a distinct line or fill texture.

Traditional Indian embroideries: kantha (running stitch, Bengal), chikankari (white-on-white, Lucknow), phulkari (Punjab), zardosi (metal thread), kutch mirror work.

Appliqué attaches a cut fabric shape to a base; reverse appliqué cuts through the top layer to reveal the layer beneath.

Quilting stitches layers together for warmth and texture; trapunto is stuffed quilting.

Beadwork, sequins, tassels, fringes and lace add three-dimensional ornament; secure with backstitch or couching to prevent loss in washing.

Couching lays a thick thread on the surface and stitches it down with a fine thread; used for zari and gold work.

Smocking gathers fabric with stitches to create elasticity and pattern; shirring is parallel gathering.

Care rule: embroidered/beaded items are washed inside-out, mild detergent, no harsh wringing; dry-clean metal-thread work.

Dye classes by fibre: reactive and vat for cotton; acid and chrome for wool/silk; disperse for polyester; basic for acrylic.

Dyeing stages: preparation (desizing, scouring, bleaching) → dyeing → after-treatment (soaping, washing, fixing).

Printing methods: block, screen (flat/rotary), roller, transfer (sublimation for polyester), digital inkjet, batik and tie-dye resist methods.

Thickeners (starch, sodium alginate, guar gum) give print paste viscosity; urea aids dye solubility; mordants fix natural dyes.

Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulose - highest wash fastness on cotton; vat dyes (indigo) also excellent.

Fastness tests: wash, rub (crock), light, perspiration; rated 1-5 (grey scale) or 1-8 (blue wool scale for light).

Stripping removes faulty dye (reducing or oxidising agents); levelness depends on liquor ratio, temperature control and salt addition.

Colour matching uses spectrophotometer and Kubelka-Munk K/S values; metamerism = colour match under one light but mismatch under another.

Blends combine fibre properties: poly-cotton (durability + comfort), wool-nylon (strength), viscose-linen (drape); blend ratio affects dyeing (two dye classes needed).

Lining and interlining materials: cotton cambric, polyester taffeta, fusible nonwoven; chosen for weight match and shrinkage compatibility.

Trims and accessories: zips, buttons, hooks, elastic, lace, piping, shoulder pads; metal trims must be rust-proof.

Thread selection: polyester core-spun for strength, cotton for natural fabrics, silk for fine/delicate work; thread Tex should suit fabric GSM.

Fusible interlining bonding: temperature, pressure and time (e.g. 140-160°C, 2-3 bar, 10-15 s) - test on scrap first.

Fasteners: YKK-style coil zip, invisible zip, metal jeans button, snap fastener, velcro; match weight and wash durability.

Eco-materials: organic cotton, bamboo viscose, recycled polyester (rPET), Tencel/lyocell (closed-loop solvent); certified by GOTS, GRS, Oeko-Tex.

Material inspection: shade variation, bowing/skewing, holes, stains, shrinkage test before cutting bulk.

Measuring and drafting: measuring tape, metre rule, L-square, set square, French curve, hip curve, tracing wheel, pattern paper, notcher.

Cutting tools: shears (8-10 inch), pinking shears, rotary cutter with mat, seam ripper, tailor's chalk, pins.

Sewing machine parts: needle plate, presser foot, feed dog, bobbin, tension dial, take-up lever, hand wheel; needle size matched to fabric (e.g. 70/10 for fine silk, 100/16 for denim).

Machine types: straight-stitch lockstitch, overlock (3/4-thread), coverstitch, zigzag, buttonhole; industrial vs domestic speeds.

Stitch classes (ISO): 300 lockstitch, 500 overedge, 400 multi-thread chain, 100 chain stitch.

Stitch density: 10-14 stitches per inch (SPI) standard; too few = seam failure, too many = puckering.

Pressing tools: steam iron, ironing board, pressing cloth, sleeve board, tailor's ham, clapper; pressing vs ironing distinction.

Loom/knitting tools: reed, heald frame, shuttle, drop pin, needle bed, sinker, yarn carrier; maintenance includes oiling and needle replacement.

Spinning sequence: blow room → carding → drawing → combing (optional) → roving → ring spinning → winding/packing.

Weaving preparatory sequence: winding → warping → sizing → drawing-in → weaving → inspection → finishing.

Wet processing sequence: singeing → desizing → scouring → bleaching → mercerising → dyeing/printing → finishing (calendering, sanforising).

Quality parameters: count CV%, unevenness (U%), IPI (thick/thin/neps), tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage, colour fastness, GSM tolerance ±5%.

4-point fabric inspection system: assign 1-4 penalty points per defect based on length; accept if points per 100 sq yd ≤ threshold.

Statistical tools: control charts (X-bar, R), histogram, Pareto, fishbone (Ishikawa) for cause analysis; AQL sampling per ISO 2859.

Common defects: warp/weft breaks, slubs, neps, mispicks, holes, oil stains, shade bar; root causes traced to yarn, loom or dyeing.

Certifications and standards: ISO 9001 (quality), Oeko-Tex Standard 100 (harmful substances), GOTS (organic), SA8000 (social).

Portfolio structure: mood board, source imagery, motif development sheets, repeat trials, colourways, technical flats, final product photos.

Repeat construction: draw motif in one quarter, mirror to adjacent quadrants for full repeat; verify by tiling the square 2×2.

Colourway production: one design rendered in at least 3 colourways using Pantone TCX or yarn-dyed swatches for accuracy.

Textile sample evaluation: GSM, EPI/PPI, weave/knit notation, shrinkage and wash test on 10×10 cm sample.

Project documentation: aim, materials, method, cost sheet, quality check, photographs, conclusion - with dates and measurements.

CAD tools: Photoshop/Illustrator for repeats, NedGraphics, Pointcarré for woven/knit simulation; export at 300 dpi for print.

Presentation: mount samples on A4 cards with label (fibre, weave, count, GSM); keep a design journal with dated sketches.

Safety in practical work: needle guard, closed-toe shoes, tie back hair near machines, unplug iron before filling, first-aid kit accessible.

Costing formula: Total cost = material + labour + overhead; selling price = total cost × (1 + profit margin); margin ≠ markup.

Cost sheet items: fabric consumption (m² × GSM), thread, trims, dyeing/printing, cutting, stitching, finishing, packing, transport.

Break-even quantity = fixed costs / (selling price − variable cost per unit); calculate in units and in rupees.

Working capital = current assets − current liabilities; cash flow forecast covers at least 3 months for a small unit.

Government support: MSME/Udyam registration, PMEGP subsidy, Mudra loans, GST registration above threshold, textile parks and cluster schemes.

Market channels: retail, wholesale, exhibitions, e-commerce, export via merchant exporters; pricing must include platform commission and returns.

Workplace safety: Factories Act provisions - ventilation, lighting, machine guarding, fire exits, PPE; chemical handling per MSDS with gloves and goggles.

Ergonomics: adjustable chairs and tables, anti-fatigue mats, 20-20-20 eye rule for screen work; report hazards and record accidents in a register.