UPMSP Vocational Textile Design key terms

A natural or manufactured fibre cut into short lengths, usually measured in centimetres, that is twisted together with others to make spun yarn. Cotton, wool, flax and viscose are common examples.

A continuous, unbroken fibre strand of great length, either natural such as silk or extruded from a spinneret as with polyester and nylon. Filaments may be used flat or cut into staple.

A unit expressing the linear density of filament yarn, defined as the mass in grams of 9,000 metres of yarn. A higher denier number indicates a thicker, heavier filament.

A metric yarn numbering system giving the mass in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn. It is used internationally for both filament and spun yarns and forms the basis of the SI yarn count system.

A number describing how thick or fine a yarn is. Indirect systems such as English cotton count rise as yarn gets finer, while direct systems such as tex rise as yarn gets coarser.

The spiral winding of fibres around one another along a yarn axis, measured in turns per metre and direction (S or Z). Twist adds strength but too much makes yarn hard and lively.

A yarn made by twisting two or more single yarns together. Plying improves strength, evenness and balance, and the number of plies is stated, for example two-ply or three-ply.

A spinning preparation process that opens tufts of fibre, removes impurities and aligns the fibres into a loose rope called a card sliver before further drafting and twisting.

A spinning process that removes short fibres and remaining impurities from carded fibre, leaving longer fibres parallel and producing smoother, stronger, more lustrous yarns.

A loose, untwisted rope of parallel fibres produced during carding or combing. It is later drafted and twisted into yarn on the spinning frame.

A thin, lightly twisted strand of fibres produced on the roving frame, intermediate between sliver and finished yarn. It is fed to the ring spinning frame for final drafting and twisting.

The set of parallel, lengthwise yarns held under tension on a loom. Warp yarns must be strong and smooth because they endure repeated shedding and rubbing during weaving.

The crosswise yarn inserted over and under the warp threads to build up fabric. Also called the filling or pick, it is usually softer and less highly twisted than warp yarn.

A single passage of the weft yarn across the full width of the loom, or one weft thread in the fabric. Picks per centimetre is a common measure of fabric density.

The triangular opening formed between raised and lowered warp threads through which the shuttle or weft carrier passes. A clean shed is essential for fault-free weaving.

A wire or cord frame with an eye through which each warp thread passes. Raising or lowering heddles creates the shed and controls the weave pattern.

A comb-like part of the loom with closely spaced wires that separates warp threads and beats each newly inserted pick firmly against the woven cloth.

The tightly woven, self-finished edge running along both sides of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back. It prevents fraying and aids identification of the warp direction.

The simplest weave in which each weft passes alternately over and under each warp. It gives a firm, strong, reversible fabric such as cotton sheeting, muslin or poplin.

A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric surface because weft threads float over two or more warps in a stepped progression. Denim is a familiar example.

A weave in which weft floats pass over several warp threads before interlacing, giving a smooth, lustrous face and a dull back. Long floats make it prone to snagging.

A portion of warp or weft yarn that passes over two or more threads of the opposite direction without interlacing. Long floats give lustre and looseness but reduce abrasion resistance.

The smallest number of warp and weft threads after which the interlacing pattern repeats. It is shown on point paper together with the draft and lifting plan.

A diagram showing the order in which warp threads are threaded through the heddle shafts to produce a given weave. It is read together with the peg or lifting plan.

The direction of yarns in a woven fabric, either lengthwise warp grain or crosswise weft grain. Garment patterns are aligned to the grain to prevent twisting and distortion.

A diagonal direction across a woven fabric at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias fabric stretches readily, so it is used for draping necklines and piping.

A knitting method in which a single yarn forms loops across the fabric width, row by row. It stretches more in width than length and includes single jersey and rib structures.

A knitting method in which many warp yarns are looped simultaneously along the fabric length. It produces faster, less elastic fabrics such as tricot and is common in lingerie.

A vertical column of interlocking loops in a knitted fabric, running lengthwise. Wales per centimetre indicates the fineness of the knit structure.

A horizontal row of loops in a knitted fabric, running across the width. Courses per centimetre together with wales per centimetre define knitted fabric density.

In knitting, the number of needles per inch on a machine, indicating the fineness of the fabric produced. In hand knitting it also refers to needle size.

The unit of a motif or design that is repeated in a regular arrangement across a fabric. Repeats may be full drop, half drop, brick or mirror, and determine screen and roller size.

A single, self-contained design element such as a flower, paisley or geometric shape that is repeated or arranged to build a complete textile pattern.

A repeat arrangement in which alternate vertical columns of motifs are offset by half the repeat height. It avoids the rigid grid look of a straight repeat.

One specific colour combination in which a printed or woven design is produced. A single design may be sold in several colourways using the same screens or yarns.

A resist-dyeing technique in which melted wax is applied to cloth by brush or stamp, blocking dye penetration. Cracking of the wax creates characteristic fine veined lines.

A resist technique where cloth is folded, twisted or bound with thread before dyeing, so bound areas resist colour and produce radiating or banded patterns after opening.

A hand printing method in which carved wooden blocks are inked and pressed onto fabric in register. Each colour needs a separate block and careful alignment.

A printing method where paste is forced through open areas of a mesh screen while blocked areas resist it. Flat-bed screens suit repeats; rotary screens allow continuous printing.

The accurate alignment of successive colour impressions in printing so that each fits its intended place in the design without gaps or overlapping edges.

Any dyeing method in which selected areas of fabric are protected from dye by wax, thread, paste or clamps, leaving a pattern of undyed or partly dyed areas.

A dye that has a direct affinity for cellulose fibres and can be applied without a mordant. Direct dyes are simple to use but generally have moderate wash fastness.

A metallic salt, such as alum, applied to fibre before dyeing to fix the dye and often to modify the resulting shade. Mordants are essential in natural dyeing.

The resistance of a dyed or printed fabric to fading or bleeding when exposed to washing, light, rubbing or perspiration. It is rated on grey scales from 1 to 5.

The way a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight when suspended or worn. It depends on fibre, yarn, weave and weight, and guides fabric selection for garments.

Grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight per unit area. It is used to classify fabrics as light, medium or heavy and to compare similar constructions.

The proportion of a fabric surface actually occupied by yarns, influenced by yarn diameter and thread spacing. Higher cover gives greater opacity and wind resistance.

A shedding mechanism using punched cards or electronic controls to lift individual warp threads, allowing large, complex woven designs that a dobby cannot achieve.

A shedding device that controls small groups of warp threads to produce small geometric or textured patterns. It is simpler and cheaper than a jacquard mechanism.

A small metal plate with fine holes through which polymer solution or melt is extruded to form manufactured filaments. Hole shape affects the filament cross-section.

The maximum force a yarn or fabric withstands before breaking, usually expressed in newtons or as breaking load. It is a key indicator of durability in quality testing.

A fabric's ability to withstand rubbing and surface wear without thinning or forming holes. It is tested on instruments such as the Martindale tester and matters most in upholstery.

The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or wetting, caused by relaxation of built-in yarn strain or by fibre swelling. It is controlled by pre-shrinking and sanforising.

A small sample cut from a fabric to show its colour, texture, weight and handle. Swatches support design decisions and are attached to costing and order sheets.

A document listing all technical requirements for a textile product, including fibre content, yarn count, construction, GSM, colour, finish and tolerances agreed with the buyer.

The calculation of all costs involved in producing a textile item, including materials, labour, overheads and wastage, to set a selling price and estimate profit margin.

Material lost during cutting, printing or production through trimmings, rejects and end pieces. It must be allowed for in costing and reduced through efficient marker planning.

The difference between the selling price of a product and its total production cost, expressed as an amount or percentage. It covers overheads and generates profit.